A Wanderer in Florence — Inside the Classic
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E. V. Lucas opens A Wanderer in Florence with a quotation from a “Synthetical Guidebook” that praises the “natural kindness” and “high spirit” of the Florentine people, a choice that immediately signals his own authorial stance: he will not compete with encyclopedic guides but rather offer a personal, literary wander. His preface acknowledges debts to Vasari, Ruskin, and Baedeker, yet the voice that follows is distinctly his own—conversational, opinionated, and attentive to the texture of both art and daily life. Lucas does not simply describe the Duomo or the Bargello; he reconstructs the experience of standing before Donatello’s David or the Amorino, noting the “light veins” in the marble of the S. George that make the face seem “to possess a radiance of its own.”
Diction and the Art of the Personal Aside
Lucas’s prose is marked by a deliberate informality that sets his guide apart from the stiff catalogues of his era. He refers to the “adorable bronze Amorino in its quaint little trousers” and confesses that the terra-cotta bust of Niccolò da Uzzano is “so like life as to be after a while disconcerting.” Such phrases are not mere whimsy; they reveal a method of making art accessible through everyday language. He also uses parenthetical asides to share doubts—as when he notes that the authorship of a Roman Emperor head is “very doubtful”—inviting the reader into the process of connoisseurship. This conversational diction creates the impression of a learned companion rather than a lecturer, a choice that shapes the entire work’s tone.
Dialogue with the Reader and with History
Lucas frequently addresses the reader directly, as when he says of the Donatello room in the Bargello, “Here (for there are seldom more than two or three persons in it) you can be on terms with him.” This second-person address collapses the distance between the viewer and the artist, making the encounter intimate. He also stages a kind of dialogue with historical figures: imagining Donatello’s S. George as “just such a resolute, clean, warlike idealist as one dreams him,” who “would eat and sleep after it and tell the story modestly and not without humour.” These imagined conversations are grounded in the physical details of the sculpture—the marble’s veins, the frieze at Or San Michele—and serve to animate the past without fabricating events.
Descriptive Precision in Sculpture and Setting
Lucas’s descriptions are built from specific, observable details rather than vague praise. Of Donatello’s bronze David, he notes that it was “the first isolated statue of modern times” and “the first nude statue of modern times,” then adds the judgment that “the first was the best.” He supports this claim by pointing to the figure’s charm and mastery “within its limits.” Similarly, he describes the Amorino as “trampling on a snake, which such little sprites did not do,” a detail that prompts a question about iconography. His eye for material qualities—the “light veins” in marble, the “gaunt John the Baptist with its curious little moustache”—grounds his aesthetic evaluations in the physical object, allowing the reader to see what he sees.
Structure and the Wandering Method
The book’s structure mirrors its title: Lucas moves through Florence not by strict itinerary but by association. Chapters are organized around buildings and collections—the Duomo, the Uffizi, the Bargello—but within each he digresses freely. In the Bargello chapter, he moves from Donatello’s David to the Amorino to the Carrand collection, pausing to note a plaquette “attributed to Donatello, under the title ‘Allegory of Spring,’ which is the work of a master and a very riot.” This associative structure, combined with the conversational voice, gives the reader the sense of a guided tour that is both learned and spontaneous. Lucas’s method is to let the objects themselves prompt the narrative, a choice that keeps the text lively and unpredictable.
Lucas’s A Wanderer in Florence rewards readers who enjoy a guide that is as much about the writer’s sensibility as about the city. His authorial choices—the informal diction, the direct address, the precise observation of materials—turn a travelogue into a personal essay. To read it is to accompany a connoisseur who shares his enthusiasms and his doubts, and who trusts that the reader will appreciate both the art and the act of looking.
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